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I'll take a look at it, I put them together as they came which was assembled but it may be worth it to try and flip them to get additional adjustment.

Sorry, forgot to mention that I have the TeamZ CC Plates. I am not sure if they didn't notice or if maybe they could not get it lined up with them in the correct way so they put them on backwards? Not sure why I know that it doesn't pull to the side while driving and I was not having any uneven tire ware so as far as I am concerned no blood no foul and maybe something that could help you. They were installed by the shop that put my air ride on and I had an alignment done afterwards to be sure it was all on straight and it was.

Have you considered trying a different CC plate? I see you have everything team-z and I am one of those people that if I can I like to get all my gear from one place/manf if I can as well but if you can't get them to line up then maybe try a different type.Īnother possibility I know at some point in my build page someone asked me if my CC plates were on backwards and it does appear that they are. If I can bolt something in it'd be better for me, that way I can do it myself lol I haven't look into front roll center but that's likely because I'm not overly concerned with how well it handles, it's main racing duty is going to be at a strip. Interesting, I can't but I have a few buddies that I trust. Have you calculated your front roll center? I'm not familiar with the team z k member but usually aftermarket k members correct for roll center, so they would not necessarily provide ideal geometry when used with drop spindles.Įdit: the second half of this post is completely (slightly) off topic, but worth looking into X2 ball joints are basically just good for a *tiny* bit of roll center correction (5/8' I believe?) but if you're running an aftermarket k member and drop spindles that should be unnecessary (and possibly not bennificial). However, don't do this if you're not completely comfortable with it and completely confident in your welds. If you're fabricationally-inclined, you can weld a plate to your strut tower to essentially replace the current mounting holes, and move in your c/c plate mounting holes by a half inch or so. I've also heard if running camber bolts but are those very reliable? iRoush I feel like you should be able to give me some insight :-) I'm going to try loosening my struts today and get the most amount of angle I can from the current configuration. I'd like to not have to lengthen the holes in my shock tower because that seems hack to me but if I its what I have to do so be it. I know plenty of guys are running 1' shorter a-arms, I'm looking for any recommendations from experience that will give me the adjustment that I need.

I maxed out the camber caster plates and it doesn't seem like my wheels are even into negative camber yet. The issue that I'm having is that even at maximum camber, there just isn't enough adjustment to get my front wheels back into proper alignment specs. After the front end swap its been a hassle trying to get it all set Looking for some insight or advice in what I need to do to get acceptable camber adjustment out of my set up.

Team z drop spindles